The Triple-Branded Curvex

By Carol Besler

The Franck Muller jewelry line is driven by the same principles that drive Breguet, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Chopard - it is haute joaillerie, driven by the high craftsmanship and attention to the minutest detail that is associated with luxury, and it is linked to the tradition of haute horlogerie. Franck Muller goes one step further, however, to incorporate another leading element of success in today’s jewelry market - a branded diamond, specially cut and exclusive to the house of Muller. In a sense, the line is triple-branded.

The Curvex cut diamond was conceived to build on the success of the brand’s copyrighted Curvex watch case shape, a wide tonneau (barrel shape) that preceded and jumpstarted the trend toward tonneaus in the watch industry. The strategy is to capitalize both on the Franck Muller name and heritage and the tendency toward branded diamonds. Franck Muller’s complicated watches are renowned collectors’ items, and the company has retained several patents. Its jewelry collections are extended to the same privileged collectors.

“We have been very successful with the Curvex watches, so we decided to make an exclusive Curvex diamond,” says Franck Muller president Vartan Sirmakes.

The cut was developed in collaboration with Backes & Strauss, an Antwerp-based diamond dealer. Backes & Strauss president Vartkess Knadjian describes it as a modified step cut with a brillianteered pavilion and sides, for a total of 73 facets. The result is a uniquely shaped diamond, elongated as a baguette would be, but wider, which gives off tremendous fire. Backes & Strauss is cutting them for Franck Muller in sizes from 0.30ct to 6 carats, according to Knadjian. The diamonds are produced exclusively for Franck Muller. Both diamond and the machinery used to create the cut is under trademark.

Cutting a proprietary diamond for a branded line is one of the latest types of strategic alliances to arise since the advent of Supplier of Choice, the DTC’s mandate to brand and advertise jewelry. In a similar joint venture, Rosy Blue has teamed up with well-known American bridal expert Vera Wang to produce and market an exclusive collection of bridal jewelry.

“I don’t know if branded diamonds will become established as an important element in the future, but branded jewelry will,” says Knadjian. “And the Curvex cut gives this jewelry line a different perspective, a selling point.”  Backes & Strauss is also currently working with Rue de la Paix retailer Mellerio dit Meller to develop a similarly exclusive cut.

The shape of Franck Muller’s Curvex jewelry line is a motif that is repeated throughout the jewelry. The cut is mixed with other shapes, mostly round brilliants, plus pave, but the Curvex shape is the dominant motif. The cut is also mimicked in other gems, such as amethyst and aquamarine.

The Curvex has brought the company some surprising successes. According to jewelry director Giani Pensabene, the Curvex cut has made a splash of the trilogy ring in the Italian market, where, in its round brilliant version, it was received with lukewarm enthusiasm. “The original trilogy concept was not embraced in Italy, but with the Curvex cut, it took on a whole new look, and it is very successful,” says Pensabene. In the Curvex trilogy, the diamonds can be set either horizontally or vertically.

Ironically, the Curvex cut has yet to be used on the watches that served as the inspiration for its shape. “It’s still new,” says Sirmakes. “Maybe next year.”