IDEX Online Research: Movado Group Poised for Strong Growth
June 01, 06Movado Group’s birth certificate says it is 125 years old, but the company is acting more like a teenager going through a major growth spurt. Sales are up sharply, profits are surging, and the company is adding new brands and merchandise at a rapid pace.
Movado Group could be described as a corporate conglomerate. It produces, distributes, and markets nine different brands of watches through U.S. and international wholesale channels, and operates 55 stores that sell Movado watches and jewelry.
In 2005 (fiscal year ended January 2006), Movado posted sales of nearly $471 million, up 12 percent from the prior year. Its retail operations generated sales of over $85 million, a 16 percent increase over fiscal 2004. Profits in 2005 surged: Movado’s reported pretax earnings rose by almost 36 percent to about $45 million. That’s a pretax margin of 9.5 percent, one of the highest of any publicly held jewelry manufacturer.
During 2006, Movado Group’s management is looking for continued strong sales growth - +9-11 percent - with costs growing more slowly. Thus, it is likely that the company’s pretax margin will also rise modestly this year.
Movado Revenues |
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What Is Driving This Solid, Consistent Growth?
From our view as a jewelry industry analyst, Movado has several factors fueling its strong gains.
- As part of the program to revitalize Concord, the company has reserved for severance. That means the company is moving quickly to get rid of under-performing people.
- The company sold off two brands – Piaget and Corum – in the late 1990s because they did not fit into Movado’s portfolio.
Brands Driving Movado's Growth
Movado Group is a manufacturer, distributor, and retailer of fine watches and jewelry. Nearly every fine jeweler in the U.S. carries one or more of Movado Group’s brands. The company’s portfolio of brands includes the following:
- Movado
- Ebel
- Concord
- ESQ
- Licensed brands
- Hugo Boss
- Juicy Couture and Couture Couture
- Coach
- Tommy Hilfiger
- Lacoste (beginning January 2007)
The Movado brand is the granddaddy of them all – it was established in 1881.
Movado divides the watch market into six categories, as shown below. With its watch brands, Movado targets five of these six categories. Movado has posted solid sales gains in each of its three major distribution channels as the graph below illustrates. In 2005, all of its three major distribution channels posted a double digit revenue gain.
Source: Company Reports |
Sales Trends by Distribution Channels
Movado has posted solid sales gains in each of its three major distribution channels as the graph below illustrates. In 2005, all of its three major distribution channels posted a double digit revenue gain.
Source: Company Reports
Sales Trends by Watch Brand
While aggregate corporate revenues have show consistent gains, there has been some variation in demand among Movado Group’s watch brands. Like many jewelers, Movado’s high-end and lower-end watches are selling well. However, there has been some softness in its mid-priced brands. Further, while total corporate revenues were up by more than 12 percent, more than half of this gain came from new brands and strong performance of Movado stores (both Boutiques and Outlets). Sales from core brands rose by about 5 percent in 2005. All brands posted a gain except Concord.
The following is a summary of each of Movado’s watch brands’ performance in 2005 and the outlook for 2006 and beyond.
- Movado – Retail prices $550-$2,995 – Movado brand watches showed a solid single digit sales gain in 2005, a trend that is expected to continue during 2006. This brand, which has been around since 1881, is the core of Movado Group’s product line.
- Ebel – Retail prices $1,400-$17,800 – Movado acquired Ebel in 2004; it had been losing money for its prior owner for several years. In 2005, Ebel sales were up 40 percent, and this brand posted a profit. The gross margin generated by the Ebel brand is above the company average. Movado plans to continue to revitalize this business and expand distribution in all markets including the U.S., Europe, the Middle East, and Asia.
- Concord – Retail prices $1,690-$14,900 – Concord was acquired more than 35 years ago, when Movado was still known as North American Watch Company (and prior to its acquisition of the Movado brand in 1983). Concord had a disappointing year in 2005. Concord suffered particularly in the Middle East, but sales in Japan strengthened. Despite weak sales (down high single digit), Concord was profitable last year. Movado’s goal is to re-engineer this brand over the next two-three years and restore it to health.
- ESQ – Retail prices $150-$395 – ESQ is the leading entry level Swiss watch brand in the U.S. It posted strong double digit sales gains in 2005. As a result of its popularity with U.S. consumers, Movado has accelerated its growth plan for ESQ: management plans to double this division’s revenues over the next few years. ESQ represents affordable luxury for the masses.
- Licensed Brands – Movado’s licensed brands – Coach, Hugo Boss, and Tommy Hilfiger – posted an aggregate sales gain of 21 percent in 2005. Most of these brands are still immature, and sales gains are expected to be well-above average for the foreseeable future. Movado management needs to be able to generate $20 million annually in revenues from its licensed brands in the early years, with mature brands producing at least $40-50 million annually. Management said that its current portfolio of licensed brands is "well-rounded;" it is not looking for new licenses currently.
- Coach – Retail prices $228-$498 – Coach watches are an extension of the Coach leather goods brand and are distinctively American. The Coach brand posted high single-digit growth in 2005. The company will continue to expand distribution of this highly successful licensed watch brand in 2006.
- Tommy Hilfiger – Retail prices $65-$125 – Tommy Hilfiger watches reflect the "fresh, fun all-American" look that comes with this brand name. Hilfiger watches posted a double digit sales gain in 2005, a trend we expect to continue in 2006.
- Hugo Boss – Retail prices $195-695 – Hugo Boss is a global market leader in the world of fashion. Hugo Boss watches were introduced by Movado in early 2005, and have been in the line for just one year. While Movado began introducing Hugo Boss watches to the trade in 2005, its major introductions came during Baselworld 2006. Trade demand was very strong for those new introductions. Hugo Boss will be in 400-500 doors, mostly in Europe and Asia. Hugo Boss operates its own retail stores; it will carry Movado-produced Hugo Boss watches.
- Juicy Couture and Couture Couture – In November 2005, Movado entered into an exclusive worldwide license agreement to design, produce, and market a collection of watches under the Juicy Couture and Couture Couture brand names. These watches will be produced in rich colors with exotic skins, jewelry elements, and distinctive shapes. Juicy Couture watches are slated to launch in the fall of 2006, and will be sold through select high-end retailers initially in the U.S., followed by Europe and Asia. Distribution will be highly limited. Juicy Couture is just starting to open its own stores; Movado-produced Juicy Couture watches will be in those stores. Juicy Couture merchandise targets fashion-conscious women between the ages of 18 and 45; it is owned by Liz Claiborne.
- Lacoste – In late March 2006, the company entered into an exclusive worldwide license agreement to design, produce, market, and distribute Lacoste watches. All of these watches will be sold under the Lacoste name and will feature the distinctive Lacoste alligator logo. Distribution will begin in the first half of 2007 and will be limited to selected retailers. Lacoste retail stores will begin carrying Movado-produced Lacoste watches in 2007.
Movado Retail Stores
Source: Company Reports |
- Movado Boutiques – There are 27 Movado Boutiques in upscale regional shopping centers and metropolitan areas. These stores reinforce the luxury image of the Movado brand and are a primary strategic focus of the company. These stores sell selected models of Movado watches as well as proprietary Movado-branded jewelry, tabletop and accessories and other product line extensions. The modern store design creates a distinctive environment for their upscale product line.
During 2005, sales in the Movado Boutiques rose by 26 percent, with a strong 8.5 percent same-store sales gain. This same-store sales gain was at the top end of the range reported by the publicly held retail jewelers.
During 2006, Movado plans to open three more Movado Boutiques: Atlantic City, Century City, and North Park. Management expects this division to post its first profit ever in 2006.
- Movado Outlets – There are 28 Movado Outlet stores. These stores are multi-branded and serve solely to sell discontinued models and factory seconds of all of the company’s watches, jewelry, tabletop, and accessory products. In 2005, sales in Movado Outlet stores rose by just over 8 percent. One new outlet store is slated to open in 2006.
Other Opportunities for Movado
- China – Movado is exploring opportunities in China. It has focused on the emerging middle class who already knows about the Movado brand and will buy this watch for both themselves and as a gift.
- Acquisitions – If Movado could find another acquisition as appealing as Ebel, it would move ahead. However, viable acquisitions are difficult to find.
Movado Background
The company was incorporated in 1967 under the name of North American Watch Corporation to acquire Piaget Watch and Corum Watch. The company sold its Piaget and Corum distribution businesses in 1999 and 2000 respectively, to focus on its own portfolio of brands. The company changed its name to Movado Group in 1996.