More U.S. Jewelry Retailers Join No Dirty Gold Campaign

Eleven jewelry retailers are announcing their support for the No Dirty Gold campaign's Golden Rules criteria for more socially and environmentally responsible mining. The list includes seven of the ten largest U.S. jewelry retailers, and represents about 22 percent of the country's total jewelry market.

The companies added to the list this year are Fred Meyer and Littman Jewelers, Ben Bridge Jeweler, Wal-Mart, QVC, Birks & Mayors, Commemorative Brands (parent company of Balfour, ArtCarved, and Keystone class rings brands), Brilliant Earth, Leber Jeweler, TurningPoint, Boscov's, and Michaels Jewelers.

"It is important for us as retail jewelers to do all practically in our power to adhere to the principles of the No Dirty Gold campaign. It is the 'right thing to do' for our community, our customers, as well as the world environment," said Jonathan Bridge, co-CEO of Seattle-based Ben Bridge Jeweler.

More than 55,000 consumers worldwide have signed a pledge calling on jewelers and mining companies to provide an alternative to "dirty" gold.

“The message from the jewelry industry is clear – there is an emerging consensus that "dirty" gold will not be tolerated,” said Raymond C. Offenheiser, president of Oxfam America, an international relief and development organization and co-founder of the No Dirty Gold campaign.

But not all is rosy. The campaign has also added Target to its laggards list. No Dirty Gold activists are calling on Target stores to lobby the company on its gold sourcing policy.

The enlisted companies join the eight companies that endorsed the Golden Rules on Valentine's Day last yaer: Zale Corp., Signet Group (parent firm of Sterling and Kay Jewelers), Tiffany & Co., Helzberg Diamonds, Fortunoff, Cartier, Piaget, and Van Cleef & Arpels.

More than 80 percent of the gold in the U.S. is used to make jewelry. U.S. retail jewelry sales were an estimated $55 billion in 2005, of which gold jewelry accounted for nearly $18 billion. The 19 companies that have voiced their support for the campaign represent about $12 billion in retail jewelry sales, or 22 percent of total jewelry sales in the U.S.

The jewelry sector's increased awareness of mining impacts has spurred the creation of a multi-stakeholder group of retailers, mining companies, and NGOs called the Initiative for Responsible Mining (IRMA). IRMA will seek to establish best practice standards for mining operations, as well as a system to independently verify compliance with those standards.

No Dirty Gold said that, on average, the production of a single gold ring generates 20 tons of waste, causing massive environmental destruction, contaminated fisheries, and fresh water.

The U.S. comes second only to India in annual gold consumption.