If the throngs of people clamoring to get into the Baselworld exhibition halls was anything to go by, predictions that traffic would pick up at the weekend was certainly true. While many of the visitors were weekend day trippers, there were many serious buyers among them. After three days of watch shopping, buyers finally moved out of the watch pavilions and branched out into the jewelry halls.

 

There is a certain rhythm to the workings of the Baselworld show. The traffic during the first couple of days is fuelled by watch buyers who are eager to snap up the new lines and “blink and they are gone” limited edition pieces.

 

Watch buyers and visitors alike were certainly impressed by Rolex’s monolithic booth, which dominated Hall 1. Non-customers were kept out of the watch giant’s structure by a bevy of staff and the odd security guard. According to one industry insider, Rolex’s distribution works similarly to an old style Sight. Customers are called in at a particular date and time and receive a certain allocation of goods. If they miss their appointment, they miss their allocation.

 

In Hall 4, smaller watch retailers were also doing a thriving trade. For New York-based Tiret, the company’s signature Splash icon seems to have made a real splash at the show. Sonya Goldberg of Tiret said that despite a poor location, which saw very little walk-in traffic, business had been very good. “Our new Moments collection has completely sold out.”

 

Tiret is set to open its first flagship store in Moscow in June 2007 (to be followed by a store in Hong Kong in early 2008). As part of its growing entry into the Russian market, the company is also moving into jewelry design, which just like its watches, are big and bold. Look out for the mushroom collection, which is already creating a stir.  

 

Over on First Avenue, where the most upscale jewelry brands are located, the floral trend of the past few seasons appeared to have finally died away, with only a stray blossom to be found here and there. At this show, hoops dominated the showcases.

 

While many jewelers have gone for the straightforward hoops in earrings, bracelets, and necklaces, others have taken the hoop concept into its next incarnation. One example is the bent hoop, as seen in Crivelli and Mattioli, which can only be described as looking as though a truck has driven over the jewelry (the effect is much more attractive than the description). Another shape of hoop, the teardrop, could also be found at a number of booths.

 

Continuing Vicenza’s taste for the macabre, jeweled skulls are still making an appearance. Stenzhorn showcased skull rings as well as an eye-catching bat and skull necklace made of white and black diamonds, which features in their current Dark Romance line.

 

Downstairs, in the Hall of Feelings, Shaun Leane, another jeweler known for his occasional foray into the dark side, seemed to have tapped into the zeitgeist with his newly expanded Entwined collection. The basic concept is of interlocking engagement and wedding rings that can be worn in a variety of ways. Now the British jeweler has added another layer to the line – a ring to celebrate the birth of a child. According to Nancy Wong, trade at the booth has been very brisk. “We are really pleased,” she said. “The new collection is very bold, which people seem to be responding to.” 

 

At a neighboring booth, Yuval Kemp of Israeli-based Dalumi was similarly pleased about the show so far. “I think the weekend was a bit slow,” he said. “It was definitely slower on the Saturday and Sunday than last year. However, the show is good. We have had a lot of very good meetings so actually business has been even better than last year but there have definitely been fewer people stopping by.” He continued, “We are certainly going to be busy up until Wednesday.”

 

Kemp is already looking ahead to JCK Las Vegas. “We also anticipate a strong Las Vegas,” he said. “The year has started out well and hopefully it should continue.”

 

An increase in traffic could also be seen in Hall 3 where the diamond brands sit. While the watch and jewelry buying continued in earnest on Saturday, many of the Jewish diamantaires closed up shop over the Sabbath.

 

The big event of the day in Hall 3 was the official launch of Pluczenik diamonds new partnership with French jewelry house Chaumet.

 

Hopefully the emerging news this morning of thefts and jewelry disappearances will not cast too much of a pall over the remaining days of the show.