What A Man Really Wants
June 21, 11What is the history of men’s wedding rings, and when it comes to wedding jewelry, what does a man really want? Does he actually want to wear a wedding ring at all or does he prefer to go “commando?” IDEX Online editor in chief Danielle Max finds out.
The news that Prince William would not be wearing a wedding ring after his marriage to Kate (sorry, Catherine) Middleton seemed to capture the attention of every media outlet, from large to small, across the world. While according to a St James’ Palace aid, the decision was one of “personal preference,” that preference being a dislike of jewelry, everyone on the planet seemed to have an opinion.
Some commended the prince for pushing a point that some men find difficult to do during all of their wedding planning – they just don’t want to wear a ring. Others, however, castigated the future monarch for his decision. Drawing the equality card they declared that in this day and age, when women are no longer viewed solely as men’s chattel, there was no excuse for not wearing a wedding ring. Had they had access to a dungeon, there is no doubt Prince William would have found himself banished there for all eternity.
(In line with tradition, Middleton received a band made from a stash of gold the queen received from the Clogau St David's mine at Bontddu, in north Wales in 1986. Gold from the mine has been used for a number of royal wedding bands, including those of the Queen, the late Queen Mother and Diana, Princess of Wales.)
While women have apparently been wearing wedding rings since they were first kohling their eyes back in ancient Egyptian time, it was only in the 20th century that men opted to be similarly bejeweled.
Rachel Church, a curator in metalwork at the Victoria and Albert Museum, told the BBC that the trend of men wearing wedding rings only part of hte mainstream in the mid-20th century when men fighting overseas in World War Two donned rings to remind them of the homes and the families they had left behind.
Even so, not all men like the idea of wearing a ring. Some opt not to because they work in a job that involves them using their hands and a ring would just get in the way. Others simply do not want to. “I don’t wear a wedding ring,” says Russell Collins, a newlywed from the UK. “I don’t like the feel of it on my finger, and it’s actually only a modern tradition anyway.”
So, if a woman manages to snag a man, and he agrees to wear a wedding ring, what type of ring is he likely to go for? The 2009 consumer survey released by The Knot (The Knot Market Intelligence Bridal Series – 2009) showed that 19 percent of all men’s wedding bands sold were made of tungsten carbide, making it the most popular of all contemporary metals and second highest of all metal types (gold was first with 39 percent of grooms opting for the most well known of precious metals).
“Men’s jewelry is no longer the typical simple gold band, concurs Jennifer Smith Public Relations & Social Media Specialist at Edward Mirell. “As men have become more fashion-conscious, their outlook on accessories and jewelry has become much more positive and adventurous.”
The company’s customers, says Smith, expect the non-conventional and actively seek out unique and inspiring designs, leading the manufacturer to continually expand its wedding band collection. “Designs are more innovative in that they incorporate casting, contemporary metals and non-traditional stones, such as black diamonds,” she says. “Use of contemporary metals, like titanium, are key to making ring designs original and cost-effective.”
The move towards contemporary metals has a practical as well as an aesthetic reasoning behind it that some women miss when they pick out their wedding rings. “Men are more realistic in that they consider both the practical and aesthetic features of wedding rings. Because most men have never worn a band before taking that trip down the aisle, they are often conscientious of weight, fit and comfort,” Says Smith. “Contemporary metals are great because they are lighter weight than precious metal bands and, therefore, most people don’t even realize they’re wearing a ring. They also tend to be a more scratch resistant and durable, which is helpful for a guy who uses his hands in construction or other physical occupations. Titanium is also hypoallergenic.”
Over at Stuller Inc, the Louisiana-based Sightholder, Craig Race, vice president of bridal says that while more and more men are opting to wear jewelry, men’s designs are not really getting more adventurous, which is why he says the company has no intention of going after the men’s engagement ring market at the moment.
Jewelry By Stuller |
Stuller is not the only one getting in on the white tungsten bandwagon. Last year, Triton, a division of Frederick Goldman Inc., introduced a new collection of men’s wedding bands called White Tungsten Carbide, which joined gray and black as metal color options for one of the tungsten carbide, one of the most popular and scratch-resistant of all contemporary metals.
Triton said it has a three-stage proprietary finishing process that results in a bright white color, which expands the color options for a metal traditionally known for its deep gray color. “This new, premium finish not only brightens and whitens the appearance but also exhibits the same properties of classic Tungsten Carbide,” says Jonathan Goldman CEO of Frederick Goldman Inc.
When it comes to choosing a wedding ring, Race is clear on what men really want, “Men ultimately seek out something that is comfortable, affordable and matches with their style, especially if they already wear some other type of jewelry – a watch for example,” he says. “We’ve seen interest in beveled edges with a finish or carved design.” Interestingly, he says that there has been some declining interest in bands with diamond accents and total weights.”
At the retail level, Khatchig Jingirian Jr., owner of Smythe & Cross Fine Jewelry in Los Altos, California, concurs that most of the rings his store sells for men do not have diamonds. However, his customers opt for more traditional metals. “Preferred metals are platinum and 18 karat white gold with an occasional 18 karat yellow gold ring here and there,” he says. “We carry Christian Bauer. It’s a fantastic line – very well made and the designs are classic with a contemporary feel,” he says of the German brand. Nor has the demand for men’s engagement rings hit his store, yet. However, if someone walked in and asked for such a ring, he says he would be more than happy to provide it. “I can’t say it’s the craziest thing I’ve heard,” says Jingirian.
Smith agrees that while wedding band sales continue to expand, typically men are not drawn to bands that have much stonework. Despite the lack of sparkle that women’s rings have, the style and detailing of many men’s rings can make them extremely eye-catching; in a masculine way, of course.
“Integration of rivets, casting, multiple metals or cable all serve to make a traditional wedding ring look more like a work of art, because that’s what it is,” says Smith. “That being said, some Edward Mirell rings do display wonderful stones, including the more masculine black diamond.”
Jewelry By Edward Mirell |
Looking to the future, Race says that Stuller plans to introduce a new, lighter-weight gold designer band selection, as well as, sterling silver traditional bands. “There will also be new contemporary metals (White Dura Tungsten™ and Dura Cobalt™) that will be introduced this summer.”
Over at Edward Mirell plans are afoot to offer pieces made from more than just one metal type. “There will be a significant push in wedding bands combining multiple metals, for example mixing Timoku with the patented Black Ti,” says Smith. “This season we will also be adding more casted rings, which is technology that was developed by Edward Mirell. Edward Mirell was the first jeweler to learn how to cast titanium.”
Whether the future British monarch chooses to wear a wedding ring or not, plenty of other men will proudly choose to wear their new status on their finger, and they certainly have plenty of choice in how they visually interpret their love.