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Memo

Untold Damage: Blurring the Lines Between Natural and Synthetic

June 26, 25 by Hertz Hasenfeld

Hertz Hasenfeld is president of Hasenfeld-Stein, a DTC Sightholder with a long history in diamond manufacturing. He currently serves as vice president of the Diamond Manufacturers & Importers Association of America (DMIA). He joined his family's diamond-cutting business in 1976 and has remained actively involved in the industry ever since.

The Natural Diamond Council (NDC) has recently adopted a bolder, more pointed tone in its advertising - drawing a clear line between natural diamonds and synthetics. This shift has stirred some controversy within the trade, with critics calling the campaigns "divisive". In response, the DMIA convened a discussion and asked me to articulate its position. We respectfully, but firmly, disagree - both with the premise of the criticism and with the assumptions behind it.

 

For years, synthetic diamonds have ridden on the coattails of natural diamonds - leveraging our industry's legacy of romance, authenticity, rarity, and emotional significance - without contributing anything to the value narrative that underpins it. They have not built their own category, nor invested in original storytelling. Instead, they've marketed themselves as interchangeable substitutes while conveniently borrowing the prestige and trust that natural diamonds took generations to earn.

 

Let's be clear: natural and synthetic diamonds are not equals. They are fundamentally different products, with fundamentally different value propositions. Trying to blur the line between the two has caused untold damage - not just in lost sales, but in consumer confusion and diminished brand integrity. The natural diamond industry has every right - indeed, an obligation - to draw that line more boldly and unapologetically.

 

Some in the trade may find the recent campaigns "divisive", but what's truly divisive is allowing synthetic diamonds to undermine the long-term equity of the natural category without challenge. It's not "mudslinging" to make a clear, creative, and culturally relevant statement about why natural diamonds are unique, rare, and meaningful. It's necessary.

 

As for tone - yes, campaigns should be smart and resonate with the right audience. But let's not mistake discomfort for poor strategy. The NDC and others are finally beginning to push back against a dangerous narrative. It's long overdue.

 

The natural diamond story is one of authenticity, scarcity, and emotional permanence. Synthetics, on the other hand, are perfect for ephemeral celebrations - trendy, inexpensive, and replaceable. There is room in the broader jewelry market for both - but not as substitutes for one another. Not in price, not in value, and not in meaning.

 

We've tried the "co-exist" model - and it's failing us. Prices are down, margins are squeezed, and consumer perception is eroding. The time has come to assert, unequivocally: natural diamonds are not just different - they are in a class of their own.

 

Thank you for covering the conversation. I hope future coverage gives voice not just to the critics, but also to those who believe this moment of clarity and conviction is exactly what the industry needs.

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